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Mod FYI - Troubleshooting To Solve Issues

Some mod issues I address here relate to any mod you have as well as any mod that has an internal li-polymer battery, and some issues relate specifically to DNA20D mods.

If you are having a mod issue and can't find the solution here, please contact me via the Contact Form on the Contact page and briefly describe in the Message field the issue you are having. I will need your name (and forum name if you have one) as well as what mod of mine you have and the mod number (mod number can be found on the invoice).

Note: I do not provide advice or assistance or service for mods that are not mine. If you are having issues with another's mod, please contact the modder or vendor you bought the mod from.

DNA20D issues:

    Display not reading the ohms, or ohms reading is frozen at a specific value: for mods with a user replaceable battery, remove the battery then re-insert. For mods with a non user replaceable battery, vape with the mod until the battery cuts out, then intermittently press the fire button until the display blanks out. When the display does not read at all, re-charge the battery. This will reset the display to correctly read the ohms.
    Ohms reading is flashing: from the DNA20D datasheet: too low power setting - the DNA20D puts out a minimum of 4 volts. With low power settings (7 to 8 watts) and low resistance atomizers (below 2 ohms) the DNA will sometimes be unable to provide a low enough power output to be power regulating. If this is the case, the ohms display will be flashing. The device will still operate.

    What this means is that you're vaping in unregulated mode - the converter can't provide watts stabilization when it needs to deliver lower than 4 volts when using lower than 2 ohms attys/cartos and also low watts setting. You can either up the watts by 1 or 2 until the reading stops flashing, use an atty/carto higher than 1.7 ohms, or just keep using it in unregulated mode. If you keep using it in unregulated mode, the converter will be outputting the battery voltage level - whatever that is - but it won't hurt anything - and whenever the battery voltage level gets to the level that the converter needs to deliver watts regulation, the ohms will stop flashing and you'll be back in regulation mode.

    Display not reading: check to see if in Stealth mode.
    Atty/carto not firing: check to see if in Locked mode.
    Display not reading and atty/carto not firing: check to see if in both Stealth mode and Locked mode. Or, the battery may be at minimum voltage - charge the battery.
    Check atomizer error message: the DNA20D does not detect the presence of an atty/carto or the atty/carto has shorted out. First, change the atty/carto. If the problem still exists - check connectivity (see below - Connectivity issues).
    Check battery/Weak battery error message: when pressing the fire button after a period of inactivity, this message may display - this is normal as the DNA20D may need a few micro seconds to "wake up". Otherwise, this message indicates a battery issue - the battery may need to be charged, or the battery is not an appropriate high drain battery, or the battery is old and degraded and needs to be replaced.
    Too hot error message: the internal board temperature is too high for the DNA20D to work correctly. Let the mod rest for a while to enable the board to cool down.

Connectivity issues:

    The most common cause of a connectivity issue is overtightening the atty/carto onto the connector. Screwing the atty/carto on too tightly will cause the connector's center post to sink into the insulator which damages the insulator. The atty/carto needs to be screwed in just to the point that it is seated securely so that it does not wobble for it to work correctly.

    Another cause of a connectivity issue is the center post of the atty/carto or the center post of the adapter you are using juts out too far from the threaded end. When this type of atty/carto or adapter is screwed on the mod's connector, the connector's center post is compressed into the insulator which damages the insulator. For these types of attys/cartos or adapters, you need to take extra caution not to screw it on too tightly.

    For a temporary fix, you can carefully and gently pry the center post up Ė just a bare unch is all that is needed Ė use a tiny flat tip jewelerís screwdriver or anything with a really small flat tip. Insert it into the connector and to the edge of the center post and raise the center post just a bare unch. Do the same for the opposite side of the center post so that the center post is seated straight and not crooked. Just be really careful that you donít twist or turn the center post and that you donít puncture the insulator. Just pry the center post straight up just a bare unch.

    Then, since if it happened once it will most likely happen again, a good thing to do is to use a 510-510 adapter at all times - the adapter helps protect the connector's insulator as well as the connector from stripped threads. Itís much much easier to replace a worn adapter (and much much cheaper ) than it is to replace a worn connector or a damaged insulator.

    Or you can insert a Connector Spacer which sits on top of the center post.

    Using the 510-510 adapter and/or the spacer will help prevent/solve connectivity issues.

    If using any of the methods above does not solve the connectivity issue, or you can see a visibly damaged insulator, or you keep getting the "check atomizer" message if you have a DNA20D mod, I will need the mod in order to replace the insulator.

Connector issues:

    The most common cause of a connector issue is stripped threads. The cause could be from worn threads (repeated screwing on/screwing off the atty/carto over time wears down the threads) or from force screwing on an atty/carto. You should never ever force screw on an atty/carto as this means the atty/carto wasn't seated in the connector properly when starting to screw on.

    A stripped thread repair kit, like Loctite Form-A-Thread Stripped Thread Repair Kit, easily fixes and solves stripped threads. The alternative is to send the mod to me to replace the connector.

Mods that have internal li-polymer batteries:

    If the case of the mod gets very warm to the touch when vaping, or the case of the mod gets very warm to the touch when charging, the battery is damaged, old, or degraded - DO NOT USE - the battery needs to be replaced.

    About vaping via pass-through with a mod that has an internal li-polymer battery: it is ultimately your decision to do it, but I don't encourage it due to the precautions that should be taken when charging a li-polymer battery.

    Never never not ever store or keep your mod in the glove compartment during the summer, or ANY place where the temperature may rise higher than 95° F (or 35° C), or expose the mod to direct hot sunlight for an extended period of time. This is extremely unsafe for any battery. If you need to store your mod, it should be stored at room temp between 40° and 70° F.

    If your mod sustains a hard fall, carefully monitor the mod (i.e., DO NOT USE) for at least 15-20 minutes. If the case of the mod becomes warm to the touch, place the mod in a fire safe place and continue to monitor - the cell may be damaged and may need to be replaced.

    General precautions for charging li-polymer batteries:
    - Never charge the battery unattended.
    - Make sure children and pets are kept a safe distance away from a charging battery.
    - Use a safe surface when charging.
    - Never never not ever charge the battery near flammable items.

About li-polymer batteries and heat:

    As a li-polymer battery ages, the internal resistance goes up and the warmer it runs. Heat, whether internal or external, is the number one killer of a li-polymer battery.

    Internal heat happens when a li-polymer battery is run at or near its capacity, when over discharged, or when over charged.

    Leaving your mod that has an internal li-polymer battery in the car on a hot sunny day, or a hot locker at a theme park, or any place that will heat the li-polymer battery, can and usually does cause permanent damage to the battery.

    Internal or external heat - both have the same negative effect - heat will significantly reduce the battery's life span and possibly make it unstable.

    Over discharging a li-polymer battery heats it up significantly and will shorten its life span. It is recommended to never push the battery lower than 3.0 volts under load. The DNA20D has a safety cut-off of 3.1 volts (no load) and if the battery's voltage drops at or below 3.0 volts (under load) for a quarter of a second, the DNA20D shuts off.

    Tip: when a li-polymer battery needs charging, always wait at least 15 minutes after using the battery to let it cool down before charging it. This prolongs the life of the battery and prevents possible overheating and damage.

How to tell when your li-polymer battery needs replaced:

    Li-polymer batteries have around a 300 (±) charge life cycle. When you near 250 charges, it's time to think about getting it replaced. You'll probably also notice that the battery doesn't seem to last as long regarding vape time between charges as it did when new.

    If you charge daily, you're looking at replacing the battery in about 9 months from the time you first started using it.

    You should also think about getting the battery replaced if it isn't holding a charge very well, no matter how many charges it has had.

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